Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Hidden PUL Pocket Diaper

Supplies needed: 
PUL
Outer fabric (can be anything you want)
Microfleece or something for inner fabric. I like microfleece because it's stay dry.
1/4 inch braided elastic
thread
sewing machine 
(serger optional)
Wonder clips or bobby pins to hold everything in place. Do not use sewing pins because we do not want extra holes in the PUL. The less holes the better ;) 
Pattern - I like Arfy's Multiwing OS pattern with a few modifications of my own. Here is the link for that pattern: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3ZS8fH9BssYMUVtWmk3T0pmYkE/view?usp=sharing

1. Cut out the pattern. Add 1/4 inch to both sides along the elastic. Add lines for the top and bottom portions of the pocket. You can also add lines for doing a French seam as well if you choose to do a different front and back to the diaper or to piece 2 smaller pieces together if you don't have enough fabric to get one big cut (ie. you only have 1/4 yard cut).
2. From here you can choose your wing length and shape. I prefer medium length wings and to square my wings. Makes it easier to sew ;).
3. Cut out your PUL and outer fabric the full pattern. Cut the microfleece or inner fabric to the pocket lines. You want these to overlap. If you are doing a French seam cut to the French seam lines and you want them to overlap as well. From here, if you are doing a French seam refer to Youtube for a great tutorial. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IKzP65czM8
4. With the outer fabric face down and the shiny side of the PUL face up, mark your snap placement. I just poke holes in my pattern and lay it over the PUL and mark with a pen. Any pen will do because it will be hidden ;). Mark the placement for the waist and rise snaps. Pin or clip the pieces in place with your wonder clips or bobby pins so that things don't move on you. Add your snaps. Don't do the wings snaps yet. Those are for the end :).


5. Optional: Serge the pocket opening edges on just the sides that will be the opening. I like to do this because it gives a more finished appearance but it is optional. Microfleece doesn't fray.
6. Lay the outer fabric and PUL pieces down so the outer fabric is right side up. Put the pocket microfleece pieces on top of it right side down. You want the pieces to be right sides touching. I prefer the top pocket opening to be on top of the bottom pocket opening piece so lay the top piece down first with the bottom pocket on top of the layers. Pin all in place.
7. Sew with 1/4 seam around the whole diaper. We will turn through the pocket ;).
8. Use the pattern to mark your elastic placement.Cut 2 pieces of elastic to be 5 inches(leg elastics) and 1 to be 4 inches (back elastics). Sew the ends of your elastics to the marks that you made. Make sure to sew back and forth over the ends 3 times or so each to tack them down. Trim the seam allowance to about 1/8 inch around the diaper but DO NOT trim the elastic edges. This will be your casing for the elastic.
Elastic Markings
 Tacked Elastic
After trimming. LEAVE THE ELASTIC CASINGS.
9. Turn your diaper right side out. Make sure to get all the corners turn. Pin your elastics in place around the edges stretching as you pin it. This will help you ensure that when you top stitch you do not catch the elastic. Top stitch your diaper using 1/4 seam. 1/2 inch or so before you come to your elastics, stop sewing and curve. Sew in to about 1/2 inch and sew the length of the elastic to create a casing. When you get to the end of the elastic, sew about 1/2 inch and curve back down to 1/4 inch. Continue topstitching until you reach another elastic and do the same steps.

10. Add your waist snaps. I do 2 snaps on each side to help prevent drooping. Pop that baby in the dryer on medium heat for 30 mins to seal all the holes in your PUL and you are

DONE!!!!